Baja, California: A Remarkable Journey

Baja, California: A Remarkable Journey

A Lindblad Photo Expedition

Aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion

March 31 - April 14, 2014

 

This particular expedition is so remarkable that we have taken it three times. Each time brings more and new interesting interactions with the sea, the land and their inhabitants.

After a flight from Las Angeles to La Paz, Mexico and a very long bus ride across the Baja peninsula to the Port of San Carlos on Magdalena Bay, we boarded the National Geographic Sea Lion. The first morning we had a chance to walk across sand dunes to Sand Dollar Beach. Back on board we raised anchor and headed north into the Pacific Ocean. Because of a storm that had passed through the entire west coast, the seas were very rough. The trip north to San Ignacio Lagoon, where we arrived the next morning, was well worth staying hunkered down and missing a dinner – most on board suffered from mal de mer.

The morning of April 2 we anchored just outside the protected waters of San Ignacio Lagoon and waited for the Mexican panga drivers to come meet us so they could guide our DIBs (inflatable landing boats) into the lagoon. Both morning and afternoon, and again the next morning (3 visits) we went into the lagoon, which is one of the major nurseries for California Gray Whales. Because of the shallow bottom and warmer waters it is an ideal place for the grays to give birth to their calves.

Those waters, which used to be used by whalers who nearly wiped out the gray whales, are now protected, and the whale population has rebounded.

As we entered the lagoon, the mothers and calves frequently came up to our inflatable boats and many seemed very curious about us. They often came close enough for us to reach out and pet them. Such experiences were awesome and exciting for us. There were also great, but difficult photo opportunities.

The gray whales were ready to leave with their calves for the long journey to the Bering Sea where they feed all summer in the rich waters. This is a twice-yearly migration of 5,000 miles each way.

By lunchtime on April 2 we were all back aboard and sailing south toward the tip of Baja, with the seas and wind at our back. After a morning stop the next day back in Magdalena Bay on April 4, for kayaking and boat rides into the mangroves, we continued sailing south, always watching for whales and dolphins. We soon came upon a pod of playful orcas that came very close to the ship. Everyone rushed on deck, cameras clicking for about half an hour.

We got up before sunrise April 5 to be out on deck as we rounded the cape at Cabo San Lucas. We hoped to see the rocks glow as the sun rose. Unfortunately the sky was cloudy. We continued a short way to dock at San José del Cabo where we disembarked for various tours and walks around town while the ship refueled and took on water. It was an interesting town. One stop was at a glass blowing factory.

Back aboard for lunch, we continued sailing north in the Sea of Cortez. By late afternoon we found a playful pod of humpback whales and they entertained us for an hour, interrupting a lecture on the geology of the Baja. Sea life always trumps lectures, and sometimes-even meals.

For the next eight days, April 6 – 13, we sailed north, then back south among the many offshore islands. Many times we landed on islands for hikes: long, medium, short, and photo meandering. Most islands had a variety of plants and cactus including the endemic Cardón cactus, which looks a lot like our saguaro but with many arms.

At several locations we were able to snorkel. There were Sea Lions as at Los Islotes. There were a number of kayaking opportunities for those who wanted to do that. We didn’t, this time.

We continued to see rich sea life including many species of birds. Some islands are protected breeding grounds so we settled for boat rides along or around them. It was fun to see Blue-footed Boobies this far north. The list of bird species we saw was extensive.

By April 9 we had made it as far north as Santa Rosalia where we spent a few hours wandering through that non-touristy fishing and mining town. The copper mines have re-opened recently. Then, we continued north, as far as Guardian Angel Island, rounding the north side east to the west side, and then we headed back south.

The weather was warm although some days were windy enough that we found shelter on the leeward side of the islands for walks and hikes. A number of days we had lunch out on the sun (bridge) deck and one evening we stayed ashore for a lovely barbeque on the beach. The food was great and on shore Jack Swenson serenaded us with camp songs.

One afternoon we anchored and took our landing boats to the dock at Bahia do Los Angeles. It appeared that they had hired every vehicle in town to drive us to the Boojum Tree forest, 18 minutes away. These trees are very unique and strange looking and are listed among the top ten bizarre plants in the world. It was good that I had my wide-angle lens.

There were many opportunities for great photography throughout the cruise and many of us who had brought along our laptops were able to show a three-minute slide show of our favorite shots after dinner on next to the last night. I think we hit an all time record with 19 laptop and iPad shows representing 21 passengers. Paul even put together a show using my iPad. This is one of the fun parts of a Photo Expedition.

By the morning of April 14 we were at dock in La Paz where we disembarked right after breakfast for a brief tour and then transport to the airport for the flights back to Arizona to continue our stay there.

That's it for now. Grace and Paul