East Africa 2012 - Lake Ndutu

East Africa 2012 - Photo Safari to Kenya and Tanzania

February 9 – 12, Lake Ndutu

Lake Masek Tented Camp

After a full day drive south through the Serengeti National Park we arrived at Lake Masek Tented Camp where we would stay three nights. In 2010 we stayed at the Ndutu Lodge, which is fairly close. There are two brackish lakes in this area, Ndutu and Masek. They are home to flamingos and many other water birds and they are located in the very southern part of the park.

Although each tented camp was different, they all had a feel of rustic luxury. The beds were always situated so you could view the outside if animals were to walk by. The tents were all on a raised wooden platforms. The sides were netted to allow for viewing and airflow, although at night the flaps were lowered for privacy.

The bathrooms all had hot and cold running water and flush toilets. This was the only camp that had a shower outside, which was very pleasant. It also was the only one with a tub, which we couldn’t imagine using. In no way did this experience resemble “roughing it.”

We had the usual two game drives every day. In 2010 this was the area where we found the migration of zebra and wildebeest. There were very few around this time. The grass had been grazed short and the migration was way north, as I shared in the last blog post.

There was, however, no shortage of lions. We came across a number of prides in the areas we explored. Lions are territorial and they stay in their area and don’t follow the migration.

With every pride of lions there were cubs of various ages. One morning we were late to the traffic jam of vehicles watching a pride of lions. I overheard someone count about 16 vehicles, and another about the same number of lions. As the safari vehicles jockeyed for favorable viewing positions the lions seemed to carry on with their daily activities generally ignoring the vehicles.

Depending on which vehicle one was in and where it traveled, the sightings could be very different, as our group’ five vehicles did not stay together. If there was a sighting, like a cheetah, sometimes we would all be able to make it and sometimes not.

We did watch three cheetah males slowly meander toward a possible meal of wildebeest. We positioned the vehicle so that we could observe the whole process. Unfortunately, another group’s vehicle came barreling into the area and scared off the wildebeest. For the most part, however, the drivers were very good about not disturbing the animals.

The last afternoon we were driving along the lake as a few elephants came by to enjoy the mud. They splashed around and sprayed themselves.

As it was our final evening there we were treated to another lovely “Sundowner” on the way back to camp. The camp staff and warriors were there to assist and make it a colorful event as we looked out over the lake and enjoyed the sunset.

The next morning there was an early but short game drive. For those of us who went we had to have our bags our before leaving.

After lunch we started the long, almost five hour, drive to the Ngorongoro Crater. On the way the group was scheduled to stop at the famous Olduvai Gorge where, over 50 years ago, the Leaky family uncovered the fossils of early humans. Since we had visited there in 2010, we chose the vehicle with Jack and Rikki and went directly to the crater. The road was extremely rough and dusty.

We were looking forward to spending the next day in the Ngorongoro Crater.

 

That's it for now. Grace and Paul

East Africa 2012 - Serengeti

East Africa 2012 – Photo Safari to Kenya and Tanzania

February 7 – 9, Serengeti National Park

Serengeti Sopa Lodge

It took three flights to get us from Little Governors’ Camp on the Mara in southern Kenya to the Serengeti in Tanzania. First we stopped in Kisumu to check out of Kenya and have our passports stamped. Then there was a short flight to Musoma in Tanzania where we went through an almost empty airport to the passport control area to be checked in. Last was the flight west to the Serengeti National Park. For me, the flights weren’t that pleasant because of some congestion, my ears would not clear. It took two more days for me to hear normally.

It was almost two before we arrived at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge where we had stayed two years ago. It is a nice large modern lodge in a good location. Lunch was the first thing on our minds and then we had a little time to settle in to our spacious rooms before heading out on the afternoon game drive.

The biggest change we noticed was that the migration of zebra and wildebeest was all around us instead of farther south as it had been in 2010. There were many, many thousands of animals and they seemed to bed down among the trees at night. In the morning they moved, in mass, usually running and kicking up lots of dust. It was absolutely awesome to be in the middle of this annual migration.

There were also lions, many of them in various prides. It is rare for lions to climb trees, but we came across one pride that seemed to have mastered the skill.

On our second afternoon at the lodge many of us chose to opt out of the game drive to download pictures, enjoy the swimming pool and just rest.

After two nights at the Sopa Lodge we left on the 9^th for a full day drive south across the Serengeti to our next destination. The vastness of the Serengeti was observable, with not much more than flat grassland as far as the eye can see. 

The Serengeti is peppered with large unusual rock formations called Kopjes (pronounced co-peas). As we passed them we sometimes saw lions sunning themselves on the rounded rocks or cheetah walking among them. We stopped at one Kopje to eat our boxed lunch, but were shortly called away by one of our other vehicles that had come across some cheetah eating a kill.

Photo by Jack Swenson

A mother cheetah and large cub were eating something and we watched for a while. Soon the chance for some shade was too enticing and the cub, then the mother came over to rest in the shade of OUR vehicle. For pictures this meant pulling out the camera with the wider-angle lens.

The vultures guarded the kill until the cheetahs decided to leave us and go back to eating.

We continued the long drive which included a stop at the Naabi Hill Gate where the drivers did the paperwork for entry to the Ngorongoro Crater area .

It was late afternoon when we arrived at the Lake Ndutu area and the Lake Masek Tented Camp that would be our home for the next three nights.

 

That's it for now. Grace and Paul

East Africa 2012 - Maasai Mara

East Africa 2012 – Photo Safari to Kenya and Tanzania

February 4 – 7, Maasai Mara, Kenya

Little Governors’ Camp

The flight to Little Governors’ Camp on the Mara River in southern Kenya was uneventful. Before landing the pilot flew around the area to give us a great bird’s-eye view of the river and camp. This was our favorite tented-camp in 2010 and we were excited to return.

The drive from the airstrip to camp was eventful. We saw lions, and the lion pictured examined our vehicle and walked around it. The picture was taken through an open window, very close. His lady friend had walked around us ahead of him. They then walked a short ways away to continue their mating ritual. I’ll keep this G-Rated and leave out that picture.

Next we came across a large herd of zebras gathering at a water hole. It was pleasant just to watch them drinking and walking through the water. There were very few zebras in this area on our last visit.

Eventually we got to the Mara River. Since Little Governors’ Camp was on the other side, and there is no close bridge, we used a small boat which was pulled across the river by hand.

Our Lunch Buffet

As we walked the short distance in to camp, George, the camp manager, told us that one of the elephants that comes by every day about lunch time was in the area. George took us to the bar/lounge tent to wait and enjoy watching as the elephant walked carefully around tables, shook some of the trees to cause their fruit to fall for her to eat, and in general meander the area at will.

In due time, she wandered off and we went to the dining tent for lunch. The elephant had left our buffet alone. This general scenario was repeated each day, but with different elephants.

Conditions in the Mara were very different from our 2010 visit. The rains had come at a different time, and the grass was much taller and greener than before. This meant there were more zebra and wildebeest.

There were very few small antelope, as they like the short grassy areas. Therefore, the cheetah that prey on them were fewer and hard to find. We did come across a couple of cheetah and that created a traffic jam with many vehicles vying for a good photo position.

The lions and hyenas were around and one morning we came across a kill the hyenas had made, but which the lions had stolen. While two male lions ate their fill we counted at least eight hyenas circling, waiting to get back to finish what was left.

Hot air balloon rides are offered at Little Governors’ and sixteen of our group had signed up, before leaving home, for this opportunity. We went out before sunrise to take pictures and see them off. They had a good ride and finished with a champagne breakfast. This left just Jack, Rikki, Paul and me to go on the morning game ride. It was special to have some time together since the Swensons usually rotate among the vehicles so they can give advice to photographers.

On one drive we came across two hippos on land. They usually spend the day in the water and come out at night to graze.

There were the usual herds of elephants, of all ages, and this area is a habitat for the Masai giraffe, which has its own unique spot pattern.

Leopard, after sunset

One evening, as we returned to camp after sunset, we came across a leopard in a tree (other vehicles were there or we never would have found it.) Those of you who are photographers will appreciate this unedited photo. Using my Canon 7D with a 200mm lens and 1.4X extender, I propped the camera on a beanbag, set the ISO to 6400 and the shutter speed went to 1/8 of a second. It may not be perfect, but I’m still amazed I could capture the shot at all.

The last afternoon we had the privilege of visiting a Maasai village where the residents shared their dances, customs and culture. We learned about their social structure from an elder. All of the children go to school so Rikki presented them with supplies brought by our group.

My favorite shot. No cigarette, just a yawn.

On the way back to camp we stopped at a beautiful location along the Mara River to watch a group of hippos bathing below us. This was our final night “Sundowner” with drinks and nibbles. It was very sad to know we would be leaving our favorite camp the next morning.

In the morning it took three flights to leave Kenya, enter Tanzania, and go on to the Serengeti to continue our adventure.

 


That's it for now. Grace and Paul

East Africa 2012 - Lake Nakuru

East Africa 2012 – Photo Safari to Kenya and Tanzania

February 2 – 4, Lake Nakuru National Park

Sarova Lion Hill Lodge

This day we left Nairobi in our five Micato Safari vehicles (all Toyota Land Cruisers) to drive northwest along and into the Great Rift Valley, which cuts north/south across Africa from Israel to Mozambique. The road is paved and is a pleasant drive through the country.

Colobus Monkey

Soon after we entered the park we were treated to a rare sighting of a Black & White Colobus monkey in the trees along the lake’s shore. With its large lake and numerous ponds, as well as the forests, this area is home to over 450 species of birds. Everywhere there was water there seemed to be large flocks of flamingos, pelicans, storks, and herons among others. There were a few avid birders in our group who had a great time.

White Rhino

The area is a Rhino Sanctuary and we were able to see a number of both the black and the rare white rhinos on our drives. We were also able to see the endangered Rothschild giraffe.

Rothschild Giraffe

The drives were always pleasant in the pop-top vehicles. They provided good stable support for our cameras at just the right height. We only had four people per each six-passenger vehicle, so there was plenty of rooms to move around and to keep our cameras close by. It was always fun to be in the middle of a group of animals as they moved from place to place, mostly ignoring us.

Cape Buffalo

While driving back to the lodge on the last evening at Lake Nakuru, the setting sun was particularly striking as the light touched the groves of yellow acacia trees. We just had to stop for more pictures.

Each evening before dinner a local group performed songs and dances. The end always involved some audience participation. The first night, I just couldn’t say no to the nice young man who talked me through the dance routine; a real aerobic workout!

The morning of February 4 we said good-bye to our driver guides at the airstrip and boarded two planes to continue our adventure at Little Governor’s Camp in the Maasai Mara National Reserve.

 

That's it for now. Grace and Paul

East Africa 2012 - Samburu

East Africa 2012 – Photo Safari to Kenya and Tanzania

January 29 – February 1, 2012: Samburu National Reserve

Larsen’s Tented Camp

Birthday in Kenya

Our 2010 Photo Safari with Jack and Rikki Swenson (orchestrated by Lindblad and Micato Safaris) was such a great experience we decided to repeat it. We knew there would be changes in locations and conditions so it would still have surprises. This year we went with a great group of 20 people.

On our way to Nairobi we stayed in Amsterdam for two days to help with the time adjustment. We arrived in Nairobi January 28 and overnighted at the Norfolk Hotel. In the morning we flew northwest to the Samburu Game reserve.

Reticulated Giraffe and Grevys Zebra

January 29 – what a fabulous way to spend my birthday. After the short flight in our two Cessna Caravans, we had a long game drive to Larsens Tented Camp where we spent three nights. During the morning and late afternoon drives we saw three of the four unique animals in the area: the reticulated giraffe, the Somali ostrich, and the gerenuk antelope. My birthday started with some cake for breakfast and ended with dinner on the deck along the Oaso Nyiro River and another cake with candles. The day almost seemed to last an eternity because it was packed with so many exciting things.

Anniversary lunch

January 30 was our 41^st Anniversary, which we celebrated quietly with a morning game drive. The really exciting part was a leopard spotting, as leopards are very illusive.

In the afternoon we watched a group of young Samburu dancers perform their traditional dances and the young men demonstrated their skill at jumping straight up in the air from a standing position. Their clothing and necklaces, bracelets and head-wear was very colorful.

On January 31 there were again morning and afternoon game drives. Every time we left our tent we had to be sure that all the flaps were securely zipped tight because there were many vervet monkeys around and they knew how to unzip the flaps, get inside and raise havoc.

The morning of February 1 we were sorry to leave the camp, but on the long drive back to the airstrip we finally saw the fourth unique animal, the Grevy’s zebra, with its furry ears and a white belly. A complete list of the animals we saw would be too long, but it did include elephants, common zebra, impala, Grant’s gazelle, oryx, dikdik, another leopard, lions, crocodiles and many kinds of birds.

Back in Nairobi we went directly to the home of Felix and Jane Pinto for lunch. They are the owners of Micato Safaris. We had the privilege of having dinner with them on our 2010 trip; they are lovely people. Their company, which Jane started many years ago, is still an award winning, first class safari company.

After lunch there was an opportunity to visit the Giraffe Center where the staff cares for and rehabilitates injured and orphaned giraffes. I went while Paul returned to the Norfolk. It was a fun experience feeding them and watching a long giraffe tongue come out and wrap around the small pellet I was holding.

After the night at the Norfolk we were ready to head out for our next adventure, Lake Nakuru.

 

That's it for now. Grace and Paul