Wild Encounters from Borneo to Bali - 5

September 25, 2014

Tanjung Puting National Park & Camp Leakey

Finally, the long awaited day arrived; our visit to Camp Leakey to see orangutans. The ship docked near Pangkalan Bun, Central Kalimantan in the southwest part of Borneo. 

We started loading all 13 Zodiacs at 7:30 for a two-hour-long ride up the Sungai Sekonyer River. Along the way we began seeing some orangutans and proboscis monkeys in the trees.

At the first landing we disembarked and walked about a mile on a wooden boardwalk to the first feeding station. The handlers brought big baskets of bananas, grapefruit and sugar cane. Then they poured milk into two bowls. 

Deep in the jungle workers began a loud mournful call signaling the orangutans that the food was ready. Soon a female orangutan came with her tiny baby clinging to her back. The pair enjoyed drinking some milk then sauntered over to eat a few bananas before leaving the platform and heading for the forest.

When no more orangutans came, we left for the long walk back to the landing. We boarded Klotoks - the double deck wooden boats that provide the main form of transportation along the river. We were about six per boat as we headed slowly two more hours further up the river to Camp Leakey.

 Dr. Biruté Galdikas, who dedicated it to the study of orangutans, founded Camp Leakey in 1971. She had been traveling with us on the NG Orion and this was a “home coming” for her. From the landing we had another long walk to the camp and the feeding station. Since Camp Leakey was open to the public, there was a seating area from which to watch the platform. 

Again, the workers brought big baskets of bananas, grapefruit and sugar cane sticks and poured milk into big bowls.  Again, in the jungle, began the loud “come to dinner” calls. Soon a mother and adolescent youngster came to eat a little and drink some milk. 

Right after they left the platform “Tom,” a big male, climbed onto the platform. He was magnificent and huge. He is well known to the workers and Dr. Galdikas had hoped he would show up. Since fruit and grubs were plentiful in the forest, not many orangutans came, but those that did gave us a good opportunity to observe and photograph them in the wild.

Eventually the mother and older baby came back and there was an amusing interaction between them and Tom over a bowl of milk. First the young one took one can and drank from it as did its mother. Then Tom slowly reached over and took the milk can back. He clearly was showing his dominance.

During the hour that we watched, the orangutans came and left several times. Each time provided some interesting interactions.

Soon some of us were guided over to Dr. Galdikas’s house where she sat on the porch visiting with members of our group. Sitting slightly behind her, loving hand on the Doctor’s shoulder, was Siswi. When Dr. Galdikas founded Camp Leakey in 1971 it was in the middle of Siswi’s mother’s habitat. So Dr. Galdikas had known Siswi since she was born, 40 years ago. The obvious bond between the two of them was precious. Although Siswi is wild, she came to spend time with Dr. Galdikas and was even tender with others who came to sit and visit. I have to say that observing this interaction was a highlight of the trip.

After a reasonable stay at the camp we walked along the path back to the landing where the Klotoks waited for us. There was a real traffic jam with so many boats in such a narrow river. Eventually we were on our boat, second to leave, heading slowly back down the river for a four-hour-long cruise all the way to the Orion.

Proboscus Monkeys

Klotok Cruise back to ship

Along the way we saw many proboscis monkeys, most of them already high in the trees bedded down for the night.  And here and there we captured pictures of a few more orangutans. Once we were underway we were served snacks and soft drinks to help last us until we re-boarded the ship for dinner.

We were treated to a lovely sunset as we cruised along, finishing the journey in the dark. The Klotoks took us all the way across the large river and quickly each tied up to the side of the ship to let us off before moving out of the way. All in all, it was a very full, eventful and enlightening day. Dinner was on the back deck as soon as we were back.

That's it for now. Grace and Paul