China 2011 - Xian

Xian and Farm Family Stay

July 3 – 5

The overnight train pulled in to Xian at 8:00 am and we were all packed up and ready to get off. It had been a very interesting night with at least some sleep. After checking in to our hotel and having breakfast, we had the rest of the morning free so that we could shower, rest, do laundry, check e-mail, and have a Tai Chi lesson.

In the afternoon we visited the Small Wild Goose Pagoda and the Shaanxi History Museum. The special dinner that night was at a Mongolian Hot Pot restaurant. We had a similar style dinner in Mongolia, where you cook your own meats and vegetables, etc., in your own pot of boiling water or broth. We were able to turn in early.

The second day in Xian started with a visit to a jade factory and showroom, where I refrained from making any purchases and judging by the prices, was very glad I bought my pendant on a previous visit.

Xian is famous for the discovery of Terra Cotta Warriors that were created and buried with Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China, in 210 – 209 B.C. It is thought there are over 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots and 150 cavalry horses, most still buried. These were discovered in 1974. 

When we visited the site in 1999 we were not allowed to take pictures. Since then many more pieces have been excavated and there is a large museum area where some of the fragile pieces, like the chariots, are on display. Although everything is still under cover, the area is much lighter and pictures are allowed. They were amazing to see in all three buildings.

In the afternoon we stopped at a local Herbal Market where we saw all kinds of things used to treat ailments. A doctor’s prescription is required to specify which herbs and proportions are correct, and you only get a two-week’s supply.

Dinner was at/before a Tang Dynasty Show. They served us 18 types of noodles, two kinds at a time. They were interesting and filling. The tables were cleared and the show started. The dancing, costumes and music were elaborate and very enjoyable. Before going to bed we had to repack for our village stay the next night.

The weather had cooled and it was again raining. Therefore our morning visit to the ancient city wall did not inspire any of us to ride bikes or take a rickshaw ride. At the lacquer factory we learned about the special trees they tap for lacquer and that the good products have around 30 coats on each piece. Since schools are closed for the summer we didn’t get that visit.

We drove out through the country areas to the Farming Village where we were to spend the night with families. Because of the unknown, I think all of us were a little apprehensive about this experience. Sally was great about letting us know how the schedule would work, but still…..  We were paired up so that four of us went to each home. Upon arrival our hostess took us to her home, showed us around the house, and explained how everything worked. We were with a three-generation family of eight, which included an eight year-old boy and a sixteen year-old girl.

After settling in our room and making sure everything worked we rejoined the group at another house to learn about the families and their community. With Sally as our interpreter, the sharing experience was very enlightening. (More later) After the session we all went back with our hostesses where we had time to visit with the daughter and work with her on her English lessons while the boy found Terri’s iPad fascinating and took to “Angry Birds” immediately. Dinner was delicious, although we did not eat with the family and they would not let us help prepare it.

After dinner we all met together again to learn Mahjong – one of the favorite pass-time games for adults in China. I played a couple of games, with help. This can be a fast moving ruthless game.

After a typical Chinese breakfast we walked down the street to the studio and gallery of a local painter who specialized in everyday scenes of farmers, families and festivals. His work is somewhat simple but intriguing and since this is the kind of local art I try to buy when traveling, I indulged in two small pieces. We were then able to visit the small studio of an artist who does and teaches paper cutting. We had a lesson and cut a piece, which means “Double Happiness.”

Before leaving the village we walked a short way to see where a few of the farmers still live, in mud brick small homes like the “Commune” homes we were shown on our 1982 visit. My have times changed.

The farm village we visited is a community of 270 families. They were (are) farmers, who have been given the chance to get loans and build homes. This village decided to use 70 of their homes as Bed and Breakfast facilities. The multi-generation families often live on the main floor and rent out rooms upstairs. Their guests are usually city Chinese who want to get away to the country for short stays. OAT is the only International Company that takes “foreigners” there for a visit. With this alternate source of income for the families, it means some farm, some work at other occupations and mainly the ladies run the B&Bs. Again, a monumental change from our previous visits.

We may have arrived with anxieties, but we left with a feeling of love and new appreciation for these lovely families. Eventually we had to leave for the airport and a flight to Chengdu to continue our adventure.

That's it for now. Grace and Paul