China 2011 - Yangtze River Cruise

China 2011 – Yangtze River Cruise

July 11-14, 2011

On July 11, after a half-day tour of Kunming and an early lunch, we flew to Chongqing, the largest city in the world, with a population of 33-34 million. Since we were traveling in the middle of the monsoon season, it was no surprise that it was humid and raining, but not hot.

As with all of my China posts, I have been trying to identify ways the country is the same or has changed since our first two trips in 1982 and 1999. Since we cruised upstream on the Yangtze in 1999 (a five day trip), when the Three Gorges Dam was not complete, there are a number of comparisons I will note during our three-day down river cruise.

Learning about tea

Before boarding the ship we had a short tour of the city that included a stop at a viewpoint. The area was totally in the clouds so we had to settle for an information museum about the Three Gorges Dam, which featured a model and a very long mural of the Yangtze that was a great visual of the gorge. Sadly, no photography was allowed. Next-door was a tea house where several ladies demonstrated the proper way to make tea. By then it was dark and time for dinner and to head to the ship.

The Lienna, further down stream

Our cruise was on the Victoria Cruise Line’s Lienna, one of the eight boats owned by an American Chinese company. In 1999 this was the only line on the Yangtze owned and run by Americans, exclusively for non-Chinese. Now, with more boats and different times, it is open to Chinese and all nationalities. The boat had six decks and holds about 200 passengers, but there were only about 100 for our trip. The cabins were comfortable and larger than the regular cabins on the boat we were on in ’99.

Chongqing from the ship

When we first boarded we were greeted by the Cruise Director and some other staff and given a brief orientation. Before we were given our cabin assignments and keys we were required to pay the 150¥ tip (less than $25) that went to the crew. This certainly was different from any previous cruise experiences we have had. There was time to get settled before we left the dock at 10:00 pm.

Day 1, July 12

River Cruise and Family Visit

Relocated family's store and home

The next day started with us already docked for the morning outings. While everyone else on the ship went to Fendu – the Temple to the Underground, which we saw in ’99 and didn’t need to experience again, our group boarded a bus for the drive up to one of the new cities built to accommodate the people who were displaced by the rising river level when the dam was completed. In ’99 we could see these towns, way up on the hills, as they were already being constructed. We visited one of the displaced families.

 At this point I should explain that, for the most part, everyone in China is designated either an “Urbanite” or a “Farmer” with certain distinctions and privileges given to each. The people living along the Yangtze were Farmers and they paid taxes on the land they farmed. Communes, like we saw in 1982 no longer existed even in 1999. When all these farmers - 1.3 million people – had to be relocated above the new high water line, they were given a choice. They could be compensated with land and stay farmers, or with money and become Urbanites. The family we visited decided to take the money and with it they built a house in the town. Their new house has a convenience store on the street level. There was enough money left over for the son and his family to open a restaurant near by. Although things were difficult at first because they were some of the first to move, they did not regret the decision and they are living better than they had ever dreamed. We then had a little time to walk down the street and experience everyday life.

The afternoon was spent cruising down the Yangtze, observing the large cities along the bank and the heavy river traffic. Now the river is navigable to large barges all the way inland the Chongqing. 

The weather was not warm, but humid and rainy some of the time. Since there was a combination of fog and pollution, it was impossible to get clear pictures. During these free times there were lectures on various topics but we didn’t go to many, except for the one on the Three Gorges Dam, which was of special interest to Paul. Sally gave a talk to our group about Tibet and the history of Buddhism, which was very detailed and enlightening. 

The evening entertainment was a Chinese Dynasties Show featuring historical costumes, customs and dances.

Day 2 – July 13

Three Lesser Gorges Excursion

Ferry in the Lesser Three Gorges

We spent this morning on the Yangtze sailing past cities and through some of the narrow gorges on the main river. After an early lunch we disembarked in Wushan and moved over to ferry boats for the afternoon cruise up the Daning River through the Lesser Three Gorges. This is where we noticed a huge change from ’99 when the boats taking us up the Daning River were very small sampans and there was barely enough water for them to navigate.

In many places these gorges range from 30-90 feet wide with cliffs on either side form 2500-3000 ft. high. Some were tree and shrub covered and others exhibited the interesting rock formations showing the uplifting that has created this area.

After passing through the Dragon Gate Gorge and the Misty Gorge and midway up the Emerald Green Gorge we transferred from the ferryboat to motorized sampans to sail through the Mini Gorges of the Madu River. 

Where possible, there were farms right down to the water’s edge and in some places even net enclosed fish farms. 

Along the cliffs there were many kinds of ladders and stairs for people to climb from the river level up to the towns and villages. When we were there the river level was at 148 meters (485 ft.) above sea level. When the lake is full above the dam it can reach 175 meters (575 ft.) and there are periodic markers showing those levels. Everything has been cleared away up to the 175 m level.

Paul models rain gear on the sampan

 
The trip back down the river was much faster, but the whole outing was about six hours. In the evening, after the Farewell Dinner, there was another show of cultural dances. Since we would disembark the next day, we also had to get everything organized and packed.

Boat next to us in the Three Gorges Dam locks

Before we went to bed we approached the dam and entered the locks. There was room for two cruise ships to fit side-by-side and it seemed we could almost touch the side of the lock or the other ship. Although I didn’t go look, I’m gong to guess there could have been six or eight in all. The whole process of going through the five locks took much of the night.

Day 3 – July 14

Three Gorges Dam model and information center

Three Gorges Dam, Yichang to Wuhan

This morning we docked and the big event was a visit to the Three Gorges Dam Site by bus. Although it was not raining, it was still foggy and very difficult to see the 1.4 miles to the other side of the dam. From the viewing area on an island between the dam and the locks we could see down into the locks we came through the night before. The double lane series of five locks allow ships to go upstream in one and down stream in the other, at the same time. There is also a ship elevator/lift for small boats that isn’t finished yet, but will take boats all the way up in one move.

In 1919 Sr. Sun Yat Sen first proposed the dam for flood control. After a huge flood in 1954, Chairman Mao proposed a new plan in 1958. There was on/off U.S. support and help along the way. By 1997 the cofferdam was completed and ships were diverted. Public visits to the site started in 1998 and when we visited in ’99 the dam stretched over halfway across the river and they were excavating for the ship locks.

Paul at the dam

The dam was completed in 2006 with 14 turbines on the left side and 12 on the right – all are 700 megawatt generating units. They are still working on six more underground turbines, which will allow for 84.7 billion KWH, or altogether 11% of China’s power needs. The reservoir stretches almost 400 miles upstream. China is now beginning to acknowledge some of the major problems caused by the dam. Only time will tell if the benefits outweigh the risks and problems. The visit to the viewpoint was very interesting and informative and a good closure for both our 1999 and 2011 visits.

Back on the boat, we had lunch and went through all the checkout procedures as we continued downstream to Yichang where we disembarked for the five-hour bus ride to Wuhan to spend the night.

During the trip Sally, our guide, had been asked questions about her family, and we learned a few things, but she saved the full story for this long ride. Using her story to explain the “Cultural Revolution” period from 1966-1976, she told how it affected both sides of her family. It was an excellent way to make the events and government decisions personal, relevant and interesting.

We arrived at the Wuhan hotel in time for dinner and an early night because of an early flight the next morning for Hong Kong. The three days on board the ship had given us a time to relax and some badly needed rest after almost a month on the road.

 


That's it for now. Grace and Paul